Just as if we were in a blue house placed by Waste Management, train cars in India have a sticker with the date and signature of the last cleaning. Unlike Waste Management's blue houses, these stickers are not a record of when the lavatory AND car were last dis-infected... they are a record of when the car was last--dis-INFESTED... and there is a difference!

Ours was last dis-INFESTED on 4 August--2009... I think... and ten days in this climate can produce big seatmates! If we could find the cast of M*A*S*H, we might have to set up some cockroach races!

Outside our car, our porter was laying on his bunk... sans shirt (almost certainly a union violation, but...)... picking lint (or something like it) from his navel... he tore himself away from himself long enough to borrow my headphones... playing at the time? A bluegrass song--"Servant for Jesus," by No Speed Limit. Trust me... watching an Indian train porter yodel to American bluegrass should be on everyone's bucket list--it is now checked off mine!

Ozzy got it right--"All aboard... I'm going off the rails on the Crazy Train... I've listend to preachers... I've listened to fools... I've whistled at drop outs... who make their own rules... Mental wounds still screaming driving me insane... I'm going off the rails on the Crazy Train...